Closing time at Yellowstone -- Sunday, Oct. 9

If you can manage it, I was told, wait until the early fall to visit Yellowstone — after nearly all of the three million people who annually clog the country’s oldest national park have come and gone and the leaves begin to change.

But don’t wait too long — autumn in the high country of northwest Wyoming comes in September. Winter comes in October (as Harley and I witnessed firsthand last week). Halfway up the spectacular Beartooth Highway into the park’s lofty northeast entrance the first real snowstorm of the season hit, and we had to turn back.

Three days later, however, while taking refuge in the friendly little cowboy town of Cody, Wyoming, a strong windstorm managed to temporarily clear the snow away from the park’s more accessible east entrance — and rangers there suddenly reopened the gates to vehicles without snow-tires or chains for one last hurrah.

On Saturday we made a break for it — and couldn’t have been luckier.

For one whole weekend, we virtually got Yellowstone to ourselves, waterfalls, lush meadows, super-volcano and all, which we shared, of course, with the resident elk, bear and bison, which seemed to be everywhere.

The relative handful of other visitors who’d also gotten word of the opening were understandably a cheerful lot, mostly locals from neighboring Cody and Dubois. Even the handsome and historic Old Faithful Inn put on a show – with a Saturday night “closing for the season” party for park employees and remaining guests.

Harley and I happened to be on the budget plan. I’d pitched my tent about 16 miles away at the Madison campground, where only one other tent was visible. But the next day I was able to pretend I was a guest at Old Faithful by taking (what the hotel desk clerk assured me would be) the very last shower of the year at Yellowstone.

Most all of the real guests at the hotel had already checked out, and the front desk cash register had just been emptied. Initially the clerk told me no — she was sorry, it was simply too late. Then she changed her mind.

“Can you be fast?” she asked. “We’re trying to close up.”

“Yes,” I said — and I think I was.

Though no one was waiting in line.

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